Friday, March 4, 2011

GIANT CHUNK FALLING OFF PERITO MORENO!!!

PATAGONIA - The End of the World

1st stop - Punta Arenas. Furthest south I've ever been! Our taxi dropped us off at our hostel around midnight, and we met Mel's friend Isaac who had been studying in Patagonia for 6 weeks. The next morning, we walked around town and saw the coast, went to a lookout spot, bought some matching penguin beanies, ate churrascos (beef sandwiches) and went to a museum in an old mansion...not exactly sure what the museum was all about. There were a bunch of fancy rooms, displays about the history of Patagonia, and a bunch of Mapuche jewelry. Overall, the museum wasn't too exciting and I got tired of reading everything in Spanish pretty quickly, but we did get to wear some giant slippers over our shoes. FAVORITE PART!


2nd stop - Puerto Natales. There wasn't much to see in town but it's where everyone stays before heading out to Torres del Paine, Patagonia's national park. Our hostel was great and mapped out a plan for us in the park, rented us our camping equipment and made us omelets in the morning!


3rd stop - Torres del Paine. SO MANY GUANACOS!!! They're a type of llama and on the drive into the park, they were everywhere! I feel like I was a little more excited about them than everyone else but how often do you see llamas just wandering around? There were also a bunch of Ñandus, which are giant birds like ostriches, flamingos in some of the lakes, and eagles. We took a ferry to Refugio Paine Grande, left our packs, and hiked to the Glacier Grey lookout point. I had never seen a glacier before and it was sooooo huge and amazing.


 After looking at the glacier, we hiked back to the refugio, ate some lunch (bread, sliced chorizo and pebre), grabbed our packs and headed out toward the next campsite, Italiano. The trail was gorgeousss and we got to drink right out of the rivers and cross a rope bridge to get to camp. This was our first hike with packs...EVER, but it was a lot easier than I expected and I just couldn't stop thinking about how amazing it was that I was backpacking Patagonia. So crazy.

 The next morning, we started trekking with our packs down what we thought was the trail to the last refugio at the base of the peaks. We had been hiking for about an hour when the following conversation happened:
Aaron: Hey, doesn't this kinda look like a valley?
Melanie: No.
Aaron: But there are mountains on both sides of us, I'm pretty sure this is a valley.
Melanie: Aaron, there are mountains everywhere!
Everyone: Oh nooooo...

We were definitely in the French Valley, going a full 90 degrees in the wrong direction. After kicking ourselves in the face for not double-checking the sign at the trailhead, we decided to set down our packs and keep going up the French Valley, then cut out our planned hike up to the peaks the next morning to watch the sunrise. We were sooo disappointed, but the Valley ended up being incredible, we saw some avalanches, which sounded like the loudest thunder you've ever heard, and it was cloudy and raining all the next day anyway, so we wouldn't have seen any sunrise. Somehow everything worked out perfectly!!! Finishing our hike on the third morning was hard in the rain, and we were all cold, soaked and exhausted but I loved every minute of it. Torres del Paine was one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen and I want to go back and hike the entire W trail, or maybe the O someday!



 4th stop - Calafate. The same day we finished hiking Torres and left the park, we took a bus back to Puerto Natales, switched out our wet clothes at the hostel and got right back on a bus to go to Calafate in Argentina. Early the next morning, we got on bus number 34567875678 to Parque Nacional de los Glaciares to see Perito Moreno. It's one of only 3 glaciers in Patagonia that's actually growing, and it is HUGE. It flows into Lago Argentino, the biggest lake in Argentine Patagonia. We took a boat out to the base of the glacier and it was crazy to feel the waves when chunks fell off into the water, and see all the icebergs floating by. After the boat, the bus took us to a lookout point above the glacier and dropped us off for a few hours. There wasn't much to do except stand there and watch little chunks of ice fall off the glacier into the water, until a giant piece of the glacier fell into the water and made a huge wave. By far one of the coolest things I've ever seen.







Pictures are all from Garrett's camera...mine got stolen out of my checked bag at the airport, along with Aaron's. So sad but at least we have these! That's all for now, after Calafate we spent another half-day in town and came home. Unforgettable trip!

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Terremotos and Cincuenta Cent

Okay so it's been awhile since my last post but I've been unbelievably busy since Spanish class ended. Melanie and I were supposed to meet our Chilean friends right after class on the last day, but since Americans seem to be the only people with any sense of time, we figured we had a few hours to kill. So of course the only logical solution was to take the metro over to La Piojera, which is a restaurant in Santiago known for creating the one and only TERREMOTO. The terremoto (which means earthquake en espanish) got its name from its tendency to make whoever drinks it feel like the earth is moving underneath them. It's basically fermented white wine with a giant scoop of pineapple ice-cream floating on top. Delicious and deadly. Up until that day, the terremoto was just a legend; we had heard stories but we had to find out for ourselves. And luckily Garrett and Daniel agreed to come along because we found out afterwards that La Piojera is known for having a slightly questionable crowd, even during the day (tourists and most Chileans stay away from the area at night). A few bits of wisdom gained during that little outing: terremotos are just as strong as people say, it's better to hear that a place is dangerous after you return home safely from it, and always pack emergency toilet paper...Chileans aren't big on replacing the roll. Ever, anywhere.

La Piojera (photos are from the internet since my camera got STOLEN):

Terremotos. Refills are called aftershocks:

After La Piojera, Mel and I met our friends in El Centro and headed out to Reñaca in Viña del Mar for the weekend. Viña is a coast town a little over an hour away from Santiago where all the Santiaguinos spend their summer vacations. Our friend Freddy (short for Alfredo hahaha) has a super nice apartment over there, and Mel and I got our own room with a flat screen TV and balcony access...score. Saturday was our only full day there. Started out with a little tennis in the morning until we lost all the balls, then went to this giant party in the middle of nowhere called PulParty (until I saw the tickets and walked through the entrance, I actually thought I was going to a pool party and was very confused why I had to pay to go. But there were DJs all day and beach volleyball, and there actually was a giant pool, and some cows watching from a nearby hill. It ended up being really fun, and we got a lot of Spanglish practice in with our Chilean amigos. Such as:

Mauricio Pechanga (aka Pechanga): Conoces a Cincuenta Cent?
Me: No, who's that?
Pechanga: Siii, conoces! Cincuenta Cent!
Me: No......................OMG 50 CENT!!! HAHAHAHAHA

Melanie: Do you guys like reggae?
Freddy: Si, como Bob Marley!
Melanie: Yeah, have you heard of Pepper? They kinda have a reggae feel.
Freddy: Yeahhh, Pepper Marley!
Melanie: No...

So we got back from Viña on Sunday night, our flight to Patagonia was set for Monday afternoon, and I still didn't have the right clothes to go backpacking. I went to a place called Mallsport (side note - whenever a word has an "s" with a consonant after it, Chileans WILL NOT understand you if you say it like it's written...you have to add an invisible "e" to the front as if that somehow makes a huge difference, e.g. "Voy a Mallsport." "Qué?" "Voy a Mallesport?" "Ahhh si!" Also pertains to "Sprite" and "Skype") to get my stuff, which is a mall of only sporting goods stores. A little overwhelming but really cool. They have a giant rock wall inside and they sell literally anything you could ever need for any sport, from tennis balls to boats, which have their own tiny man-made dock outside next to one of those stationary wave things you can surf on. Bought some clothes, rushed home, packed like a mad-woman and went off to the airport with Mel, Aaron and Garrett anddd this might be a bad time to stop but it's late and it's my first day of school tomorrow, AHHH!!!

Reñaca:


TO BE CONTINUED...

Thursday, February 17, 2011

V-Day, A Poet and Some Graffiti

Only one more day of Spanish class!!! I did my group presentation yesterday. We presented on Cerro San Cristobal and Bellavista. It went pretty well, but I totally forgot to include a whole paragraph that I was supposed to say. Oh well, nothing I can do about it now! Live and learn everyone. Haha. Tomorrow is our final exam...and then no more class until real school starts! AHHHHH!!!

Monday was Valentine's Day, or as they say here, El Día de Enamorados, and my friends and I decided to have a nice dinner together at my friend Aaron's house. Melanie decorated all the table with candles and rose petals, and it looked GORGEOUS. Aaron's brother used to be a head chef, and he made us amazing ravioli, Caesar salad, and garlic bread. I have never been so excited to eat a Caesar salad before. Mostly because it actually has lettuce and dressing in it. Attention Chileans: A BOWL OF TOMATOES IS NOT A SALAD. Brenan, as a fellow tomato-hater, I'm sure you understand the pain I feel everytime I'm served a giant spoonful of this so-called "salad."I eat it and want to cry. Here's some pics from our V-Day dinner:




On Tuesday, we had our last "cultural activity" with our groups. My group went to Pablo Neruda's Santiago home, which is called La Chascona. It was exactly how I would picture a famous poet's house would look, super quirky and artsy, with eyeballs hanging from a tree, LOOK!
Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take pictures inside, so this is what you get! The whole tour was in Spanish so I didn't understand a lot of it, but I'm sure it was fascinating...Afterwards, our group monitors took us to an ice-cream shop that they said was the best in Santiago. So many cool flavors. I had strawberry mint and a mango/pineapple/peach blend (I think?) which were both delicious and tried my friend's...drumroll please...NUTELLA ICE-CREAM!!! I had no idea such a great thing could exist, but yes, it does exist and it's amazing in every way. After our ice-cream, we still had money left (since the trips are included in our fees, we're given a certain amount each time to spend), we headed over to a bar in Barrio Lastarria. I tried a vino sour, which is white wine and...lemon juice I think? Anyway, another delicious discovery.

Going to Reñaca this weekend!

Love the graffiti in the city:




Chao until Sunday!

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Wine and a Llama

So on Thursday we took the best field trip ever...Viña Concha Y Toro to go wine-tasting! The vineyard was about an hour outside Santiago, and it was gorgeousss. We watched a video about the vineyard, tasted two of the wines (I didn't think I liked white wine, but after this field trip I have changed my mind. Delicious.), ate some grapes right off the vine, and went down into the wine cellar, which was super dark and spooky. The cellar was called the Casillero del Diablo, and in the back there was a smaller room that was lit up with red light that was supposed to be the devil's wine hallway or something...it had to do with some legend. Fun facts! Concha y Toro was the first winery in the world to have its shares traded in the NY Stock Exchange, and it is the official wine partner of Manchester United. Also, we had a tour guide the whole time who all the girls thought was cute...he got two girls' numbers, and then we found out he is married with children...........





 It rained while we were there, and right after it rains is the best time to see the mountains:


Yesterday, we went to Cerro San Cristobal to check out the weekend féria, where they sell a bunch of random stuff, and there was a llama there!!! I had to sneak a picture of him because you were supposed to pay and I had no cash...it's blurry but incredible. My first llama sighting in South America. We had our friend Pedro pick us up at the bottom of the hill and drive us up to a picnic area where he and his friends were having an asada (BBQ). We met a bunch of Chileans and got an amaaazing view of the city.




And I found an apartment!!! I'll be living with my friend Marcella, a Chilean student and his mom in the middle of Providencia, which is considered the safest part of the city. Everything we need is super close, including a Starbucks downstairs! The Starbucks here are super nice, and usually have a whole floor for couches and tables. Definitely gonna be my new study spot. My room is connected to Marcella's by a big balcony that only we have access to. I'm sad to leave my host family, but sooo excited to move in to my new place. The mom that lives there is really nice and said to just pretend she's not there, which is exactly what I need. We move in the 1st week of March!

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Hammer Time

Here, Mom! Sorry I haven't updated in awhile...

So I'm in my 2nd week of Spanish classes at La Católica, and they're going well except that it's 4 hours a day and I can't focus on ANYTHING for that long, let alone Spanish. I don't feel like my Spanish is getting too much better yet, but I'm hoping that changes once real school starts and I have no choice anymore haha...


Last weekend almost everyone in my program went to the coast, but I stayed in the city with some of my friends. On Friday night, we hung out with our friend's host brother and his friends. It started out super awkward since we were too nervous to speak Spanish and they were too nervous to speak English, but after a few rum and Cokes (ron y coca) it got a little easier, and I practiced a ton of Spanish until they busted out their English. Turns out a few of them were actually pretty good, and the best ones had never taken any English lessons. Who says Friends isn't an educational show?!? One guy learned entirely from watching Friends and Lost, and another one said he learned from watching movies and listening to American music. (Okay Grandma, you win. I should've watched your novelas with you.) Anyway, the Chileans I've met so far are all super friendly, exactly what I was told before I came!


On Saturday, we went to Patronato, which is a whole district of cheap clothes, shoes and jewelry kinda like Santee Alley in downtown LA. My friend Marcella and I bought some M.C. Hammer pants to fit in with the Chileans!!! Can't wait to sport those bad boys, but I don't think they will ever make an appearance outside Chile. If they do, please tell me to change.


On Sunday, we went back to California Cantina for the Superbowl! Sooo fun, but one MAJOR disappointment. No Superbowl commercials!!! What did they think I came for? To watch the game?! Please. Every commercial break was just soccer highlights from the past season...in Spanish. The same ones, every time. And THEN, the power went out right as Usher got onstage during halftime and we missed the whole thing. Either way, the Packers won and we had a great time. California Cantina is gonna be our new hangout whenever we miss home. The owner already knows us and they have special events for every holiday: Valentine's Day, St. Patrick's Day (okay that's Irish but they don't celebrate it in Chile), Easter, 4th of July...plus reggae nights on Wednesdays and it turns into a club at least once a week. Perfect! 


Today after class, we went on a fieldtrip to Palacio La Moneda (the presidential offices) for a tour. We only got to go into the courtyards and a few rooms, but it was really cool to see. Who knew I would be at the Chilean White House before the American one? Apparently the president was there today, but we didn't get to see him. I thought it was interesting that the presidents haven't lived in La Moneda since the bombing in '73; they stay at their own houses and are driven underground to work every time they have to come in. 


More updates soon!


La Moneda:


With some of the girls at California Cantina:





Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Ayyy Ay Ay

Monday was my first day of Spanish class! For some strange reason, I was placed in the intermediate class. I thought for sureee I would be in the lower one. The first thing we had to do was get up in front of the class and talk about ourselves. YIKES. It went fine, but I probably sounded like a 3-year-old compared to the people who went before me. I swear they're just pretending to be American. Sounded pretty fluent to me! Oh well...I like my teacher and I feel like I'm slowly getting more comfortable speaking Spanish. Very very slowly.

Yesterday morning, we went as a group to register our visas with the international police and apply for our Chilean ID cards. SUCH. A. NIGHTMARE. After meeting at the metro station at 8am (which was really far from my house), waiting in lines all morning and filling out paperwork and making copies (all at different places), I finally get to the desk to submit my info for my ID. Then the lady tells me she can't accept my application because the stamp in my passport is too light and she can't read my arrival date. Luckily, I wasn't the only one in my group with this problem. Another girl, Kellee, and I had to walk all the way back to the international police station to request another stamp, but the guy who gave us directions sent us to the wrong building. We finally found it and had to go to 3 different counters, then got lost on the way back and finallyyy made it back to submit our forms. To top everything off, not one person we asked could tell us what bus to take to school, so we had to take a taxi and were an hour and a half late for class. Then had class until 6, and a "mandatory" dinner with our Chilean student guides (and by dinner, that meant a 2-hour meal and a bar after). Longest day everrrrr. Anyway, it's over and I get my Chilean ID in 10 days!

I bought a plane ticket to Patagonia last night! Can't wait to see some real live happy feet! Oh, and giant glaciers.